Buenos Aires: Una ciudad maravillosa (Travel Diaries Day 19)

Few cities have left me feeling so enamored the way Buenos Aires did!

The cobbled streets of Palermo, the European architecture of Centro, the longing rhythm of tango, the bitter taste of the first sip of mate, the Argentinian accent with the strong y and ll sounds, the mouthwatering deliciousness of empanadas and asado, the ever-present dulce de leche, the passion for football, the street art … and I could continue! Buenos Aires has so much culture and character. It is now one of my favorite cities in the world.

We spent a whole week in BA, so we took it slow and had the time to really explore and live the city. Upon arrival, we were quite shocked to see how expensive everything was. This is due to hyperinflation, which in the last year has reached peaks of 300%! It is very sad, for our budget but especially for the Argentines. We found them to be such hospitable, friendly people, and their country has so much to offer, yet they have been plagued by years of terrible and corrupt leadership. We were curious to hear opinions from the locals about the politics of Javier Milei and quickly learned opinions are highly divisive: some are hopeful that his extreme policies will change things for the better, but on the other hand, many are struggling with poverty and are not so optimistic. If everything feels expensive to us, I honestly can’t imagine how hard it must be for them. I really hope things improve soon. Argentina is a beautiful country full of resilient, generous people - it deserves better.

During our week in Buenos Aires, we did so much and still barely scratched the surface. We joined a couple of free walking tours, one through the city center and another in the colorful La Boca neighborhood, learning more about the city’s complex and fascinating history. We had empanadas, milanesa and choripán at the San Telmo market (so many delicious things in one place!), strolled through wide green parks, and got properly introduced to yerba mate. People here really love their mate, to the point that they walk around with their thermos everywhere they go. I found it quite hilarious and endearing.

We took part in a “Mate tasting experience” where we learned about the history of mate, its cultural significance (which is even stronger than espresso for Italians, surprisingly!), and of course we also got to prepare it and taste it ourselves. I liked it so much that after the class I went straight to a mate shop and got myself a mate and bombilla to bring home!

Trying all the food in San Telmo market

Exploring the colorful La Boca neighborhood, where tango was born and street art reigns

Street art in La Boca. The myth of Maradona is still gong strong even years after his death. Nothing is felt more strongly than the Argentines’ passion for football!

We also took a tango class in a milonga, and I loved it! Tango is probably my favorite style of dance, and I’m now seriously considering taking classes once I’m back in Barcelona. There’s something so emotional and elegant about it... it draws you in.

Tango show in La Viruta. People join in and dance freely with the live music. We tried a few steps ourselves and were glad we managed not to step on each other’s toes! We looked like such noobs compared to some pro dancers.

One thing that caught me by surprise is how much I felt a connection to this place, beyond just the vibe of the city. I later found out that the name Buenos Aires actually has a link to Sardinia! The name comes from Nostra Signora di Bonaria (Our Lady of Fair Winds), a Marian devotion that originated in Cagliari, the capital of Sardinia. In the 14th century, Spanish sailors passing through Sardinia named their protector after this figure, and when they later founded the city in Argentina, they gave it the same name: Buenos Aires. It gave me chills when I read this story! Maybe that’s why the city felt strangely familiar, like I already had a little piece of it in me.

We had such a great time, and it’s with a bit of sadness that we left… but the journey must go on!